GlobeRovers

Tancho Cranes and Hooper Swans migrate from the upper Russian Siberia to the relatively less harsh winters of eastern Hokkaido. Watch as these cranes do their love dances in the snow and feel free to join the swans in the lake. When bird spotting in the deep freeze gets too tiring, soak in one of the many romantic outdoors natural thermal springs while your surroundings get covered up in soft falling snow. End off the day with creatively prepared Japanese cuisine around the fire place, and sleep on your tatami after sipping on a cup of green tea.

The starting point to this journey is a JR (Japan Rail) pass purchased outside of Japan. This pass is only available to foreign visitors and must be purchased prior to landing in Japan. While a 7-day (or 14-day) pass is not cheap, you will find that the pass is paid within 1 or 2 days of travel on local fares. Train travel (and buses) are very expensive in Japan. Japan Rail has most of the country covered and the pass includes all the the fastest bullet trains (except the super fast Nozomi Shinkansen).

The Red-Crowned Crane (or Japanese Tancho Crane) is found around the marshes north of the town of Kushiro. In the summer and spring they breed in Siberia (Russia) and spend their winters around the Kushiro marshes. There are a few places to see them. The International Crane Centre, about 60 minutes by bus north of the Kushiro JR station, is probably one of the best places to get close to them. Here, on a good day, you will find about 100 or more cranes, often accompanied by Hooper Swans. Its a very worthwhile trip!

Hooper Swans (also known as Whooper Swans) are in their hundreds on the warmer waters of Lake Kussharo, about an hour north of Kushiro. From the little village of Kawayu Onsen (with lots of thermal activity and hot springs) its a 15 km hike to the lake where the swans congregate in two spots (Ikenoyu and Kotan). Both places have hot springs water flowing into the frozen waters of the lake so feel free to soak in the water with the swans. While they are not particularly welcoming, they won't bite! Do spend a day or three in the little village of Kawayu Onsen. You will come across some Ainu people. They are the original naitive inhabitants of Hokkaido and have a few villages concentrated around the lake.

Enjoy several indoors and outdoor onsen (hot springs), and numerous ashiyu (foot onsen). About 4 km outside Kawayu is the Iozan thermal area in the nearby hills. Witness some major active vents and walk cat-foot. The steam is extremely hot around the yellow sulphur mount vents!

Hokkaido is blessed with several natural hot springs areas. Probably the most famous are those around Noberibetsu and Lake Toya around the active volcano of Usu. Probably the best time to enjoy these outdoor hot springs are in winter when your surroundings are covered in snow while you snuggle up in the nice hot waters. Leave your swimsuit at home as its not custom in Japan to wear any swimwear in the hotsprings. While in most places males are separated from females, several offer mixed bathing areas - so bring the fig leaf (which is a small white towel to cover your privates when outside the water, and cover your head when inside). Carefully wash off before entering the pool and wear your yukata (and not your kimono) to and from the baths.

While not in Hokkaido, but in northern Honshu Island in the eastern Akita Prefecture, I can highly recommend the Tsurunoyu Onsen. This very romantic and cosy ryokan with onsen is secludedly located in a valley near Lake Tazawako - a crater lake and also the deepest lake in Japan. A washitsu room (Japanese style) with tatami mat goes for over ¥9,500 per person (about US$110), its not a cheap, but worthy indulgance to a tired backpacker.

Also, while not in Hokkado, but in nothern Honchu Island near Yamagata, is the lovely little village of Zao Onsen. Flanked by high ski slopes, this onsen offers several smallish hot springs, of which some are outside along a stream flowing down the mountain. Be here in the middle of winter and you will be surrounded by tons of snow in a little white wonder-world. Don't miss the Juhyo (snow-covered trees that look like monsters) at the very top of the ski slopes. Again, be here in January and you will be in the deep freeze of the most amazing sights of snow covered trees you have never seen anywhere else.

When done with Hokkaido, head for southern Japan - most notably the islands of Kyushu, Shikoku and Miyajima. See HERE for pics of these islands, including Honshu Island.